HOTEL PALACIO - ESTORIL



film stills from "On Her Majesty's Secret Service"
You know when you're hotel appears as the setting for a 1969 James Bond movie, On Her Majesty's Secret Service, it's gonna be good. It'll have that old world elegance, martinis, a healthy dose of class and a sexy pool, no doubt. You hope and pray it's survived the 80s and renovations. Well lucky for us, the Hotel Palacio in Estoril, about 30 minutes from downtown Lisbon, is a grand old dame. The hotel hasn't changed a bit (except there's no moat around the pool, boo!) and that's a good thing.

Built in the 1930s and used as a hideaway for exiled monarchy and spies in World War II, the history and memories of champagne toasts and fallen empires breathe life to each room. I am officially a Pig In Slop.

If You Go:
Hotel Palacio Estoril
R. Particular, 2769-504 Estoril - Cascais
Portugal

OBIDOS, PORTUGAL




The scent of roses, jasmine, bougainvillaea and little coffees lured us into this tiny hilltop town of Obidos. Located on the coast, within a medieval castle walls, this gem of a historical locale perches proud, with good reason. It's no wonder Obidos was named a UNESCO heritage site in the 1990s, it's a place worth preserving. Completely walkable and without many cars, the city exists in a time warp. The main drag is lined with little shops, the heartbeat of the city for 800 or 1000 years. We danced upon the city walls, imagining the life of Royalty, dragons and battles. Shortly after, I got scared and found myself a lovely dinner of fresh squeezed orange juice and cheese toast.

If You Go: 

Stay: Argonauta Guest House
Concha, the proprietress, has a beautiful home with antique furniture. She has an incredible laugh and made us the best 'huevos revueltos' with fresh oregano and sheeps cheese for our breakfast. UNBELIVEABLE!

+351 262 958 088

Time to Visit:
There's a medieval festival in Obidos every summer, this year it occurs between July 11 and August 4th (weekends). I'd absolutely plan my next visit to Portugal with this fair in mind!

CASA DE MATEUS





One of our favorite places and happiest moments in Portugal was spent running around the Casa de Mateus, a former palace/summer home to many a succession of fancy families. The grounds include a whimsical garden, simple shaded benches and even a cedar tunnel, planted in the 1940s. The roses, topiaries and vineyards were outrageous, but when we came upon a ripe grove of cherry trees, we were all but lost to this heavenly spot . . . Time stood still as we grazed directly from the full branches in the afternoon sunlight. We were cherry thieves and gorged ourselves on the sweet fruits.

If You Go:
Casa de Mateus
5000-291 Mateus
Vila Real, Portugal

PORTO, PORTUGAL






After an incredible ride, the week-long photo workshop I co-hosted with my fabulous pal Bianca of Italian Fix (more on this event coming soon!), Dave and I have arrived in Porto, Portugal for a little bit of exploration, sunshine and Port wine . . . Have you ever been to this enchanting city?

It's glorious -- full of teensy streets with layers of crumble, renewal, colorful tile, beguiling wrought iron and delicate broken windows. The mix of new and old is captivating, as is the soulful music (FADO!!!), relaxed, lingering way of sipping and nibbling on salty and sweet . . .

Here is just a peek into our last few days, what a joyful place!

A CUPPA WITH TEJA REAM


Teja Ream is an artist, dreamer, mother and creative director, last and certainly most important, she is my great friend. We met in my dad's photo class (the only one I ever got to take!) as her life was taking a big u-turn shifting from English to fine art and I was about to embark upon my first year as an art student. This was a pivotal summer for both of us, our lives in such flux and transformation-- When we connected and instantly invited each other for (you guessed it!) a cup of glorious black tea at a grungy Isla Vista cafe, the sparks flew and it was on. Our friendship hasn't changed much since that cloudy June day in 2001.

Teja's talents are too diverse to list, but the girl is a creative powerhouse as well as a great mom and wife. She writes, creates, thinks, directs -- a general make @*^& happen person, wherever her ideas takes her, she goes forth with a path blazing behind. She made life sized white unicorns from porcelain and plaster without ever stepping foot in a sculpture studio for goodness sakes! Her 3 year-old daughter Elsa is a chip off the old block, and has stolen my heart much like her mother.
 
What is your favorite type of tea and how do you take it? It is hard to pick a favorite tea.  Right now, I am enamored with Earl Grey . . . I like all kinds, but currently I am drinking Mighty Leaf's Organic Earl grey.  I love the fragrance of the tea, the hint of Bergamot. Is it strange to say that i find it overwhelming?  It hits my brain's happy spot for fragrance.  I like to let it seep for 3 minutes and then i add a couple spoonfuls of wildflower honey (I am particular about my honey as well, the store bought variety can be a real hit or miss, but the local farmer market variety tend to be good.  I like a light blonde honey, usually its wildflowers.) I also add whole organic milk so that its a pale taupe color when i drink it

How does tea punctuate your day?  I try to be careful with how much caffeine I have. So I tend to limit myself to two cups a day, once in the morning and once in the evening.  I would say that if I err on having it once a day, I like it at night after dinner, usually around 8. When it first hits me, I feel relaxed instantly.  The fragrance, the hot steam, the sweetness . . . It is the trigger that makes me feel like the day melts away.

My tea accompaniment of choice is: I do love sometimes those chocolate covered shortbread cookies as an accompaniment to my tea. Recently I read Prousts Swann's Way and have been meaning to pick up some madelines to try.

In the work week I tend to drink my tea when I am reading in the evenings, checking emails, settling in an armchair talking to my husband . . .  is on when I'm having tea. 

I first started drinking tea when . . .  I have been drinking tea for as long as i have a memory to remember.  My family is Chinese by way of Jamaica (former British colony) so the culture of tea is deeply established.  I cannot recall anyone drinking coffee, and family holiday events ALWAYS end in brimming cups of tea (and of course dessert).

My dream tea party would include . . . You know, I think I have already had so many wonderful tea experiences.  Immediately, I recall afternoon tea service on the shores of the Pacific at the 4 Seasons Biltmore Hotel with my dear friend Leela.  Sitting in overstuffed couches and pillows, in front of a fireplace with open doors to the sparkling ocean on a perfect 75 degree day in Montecito.

When I sip from my tea cup, I . . . I love the intimacy of tea. I love languid afternoons with good friends and dappled sun and a gentle breeze. As i think of it now, I think tea for me is about that connection and intimacy with another person. Nowadays, a million things ring, beep, alert, push a notification at you for you to fractionalize your time, but my ideal tea party really celebrates being in that moment with a good friend.